"Paris to Dakar".... Those words conjure up images of motorcycles speeding across sandy plains, dodging exotic shrubs, and bringing excitement to remote villages in West Africa. Along with stirring the imagination of adults all over, those 3 words have also created a dream for many little kids.... that of riding a motorcycle across Africa! Ok, so the title might be a slight exaggeration, maybe not every kid has dreamed of riding across Africa. But they should have!!!
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| A very scenic detour around road construction near Sindou |
So, that's exactly what we did during the last 3 days. We didn't cover quite as much ground as the famous rally does... but it was enough to see some amazing sights! Hopefully you enjoy seeing them as much as we did.
Around mid-day on Sunday, we set out from Bobo, heading south on a road which we had never before traveled. Some had said it was not a suitable road for bikes, that the buses would run us over, that there are too many holes, all kinds of dangers! Others said it was completely fine for bikes, not to worry at all. After much debate during the previous weeks, we had concluded that the negative opinions came from ones who had never ridden this particular stretch of road, and the positive opinions came from those who had actual experience to base their thoughts on. So, ride we did! And, we are happy to say, the positive opinions were right!
The ride down was pleasant, however it was too hazy to get a view of any scenery in the distance. Every so often, we could just make out the shadow of a hill in the distance to our right or left, just enough to make us wish it were clearer. However, to give an idea of the countryside, I can say its mostly rolling hills, all covered in forest to some degree. By that, I mean that it's not like forest in western Oregon or the Sierra foothills! In places the trees are pretty small (some barely bigger than bushes), and maybe 50 feet apart. As we traveled south, though, we found that not all trees in Burkina are small!
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| Can you see the 2 guys riding on the roof of the van? That's pretty normal, and its not like they slow down because there are passengers on top! |
Arriving in Banfora, we came down a grade with cliffs on our right, and could tell something was different than in the last 80 km's. And, just in case we weren't sure, the sugar cane fields confirmed it! We weren't in Bobo anymore! Turns out that Banfora is quite an agricultural region. There are miles and miles of sugar cane fields, all irrigated by pivots and hand lines, just like crops in Idaho are!


After a few hours spent exploring the town of Banfora, we finally met up with our friends who knew the way to our destination: Lake Tengrela. Following them took us down one of the dustiest roads we have ever seen, followed by one of the best roads we have seen in Burkina. Of course, as logic would dictate, the dusty part is right in town where it can affect the most people, and the really nice completed section is just outside of town where there aren't any neighbors to be bothered by dust... But, soon enough we turned off of the main road onto a trail leading through a village. A sign at the turn promised that we were headed towards a camp with a restaurant and cold drinks. Promises like that are a little hard to trust in Africa.... If nothing else, at least the ride was interesting!
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| Baobab tree |
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| These goats were literally climbing all over an old mosque. When we stopped to take pictures a villager told us that we needed to pay because they are the village's animals. He wasn't very happy with our reasoning that he didn't have the right to ask us for money, since the goats were on the mosque, and he wasn't the imam (pastor)! |

Once we got past the village, we did in fact find a sizable lake. And there was indeed a "camp", and even some tables and chairs, alluding to the idea that we could sit down and eat. Well, that's when things began to really get interesting. First, I haven't mentioned the logistics of this trip yet. In total, 11 people were involved, taking 3 different modes of transport to arrive in Banfora. The 2 that we met had taken the bus, with their scooter (moto) in the cargo of the bus so they could ride to the camp. Originally the remaining 7 were all going to be coming together in an SUV. What we didn't know til we got to the camp was that the SUV had mechanical problems. So, the only one in the group who owns a car, a German brother, had to drive his Mercedes sedan the whole way. But, only 5 can fit in that car, so 2 had to take their moto. Of course, they didn't know any of this until it was almost dark. So, we are comfortably sitting in camp, as 2 Czech sisters ride their scooter 100 km's in the dark. They later said that it wasn't too bad, except that oncoming cars don't really have the habit of dimming their lights, so they hit a few potholes due to being blinded by other drivers (not fun on a scooter!) Anyways, we waited and watched the sun set and the moon rise. Eventually everyone did arrive safely. And boy was it a good thing! The only way we finally got the beers that we had ordered an hour before was through German determination! What a surprise when the food itself finally arrived too! We headed to bed soon after dinner, because we had to get up and on a boat by 6 am to see the hippos the next morning. By bed, I mean a mattress set on a rough frame with sticks holding up the mosquito net. To be fair, we could have been on a mattress in a hut, but everyone had jumped at the option to sleep outside. "What fun, it will be great!" What we all failed to take into account was that being next to a body of water makes for cooler temperatures. We had just come from 100 degree days and 80+ degree nights. So, did we bring warm clothes, blankets, anything? NO! As it turns out, covers aren't included with the beds... so we all froze!! 5:30 am couldn't hardly come soon enough! Finally, we were on the water, crossing the lake, scanning for hippos.
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| A fisherman checking his nets |



After all the excitement of seeing hippos is over, back to camp for breakfast and then back on the bike. Next stop, the peaks of Sindou, 50 km's away. These are in every guide book on Burkina, so we had seen pictures but still weren't really sure what to expect. Well, we found out as we were riding along and a row of spires a few hundred feet tall slowly came out of the haze directly in front of us. Turns out that a guide is mandatory, so we followed our guide from the parking lot to a set of stairs, where he explained that this formation actually contained the original village of Sindou clear back as far as the 14th century, when they left southern Mali because of war. He talked quite a bit about history... personally my interests lean more towards geology... so I'll try not to bore you with too much of either one! In short, these are sandstone formations that formed at this end of a mountain range that extends for hundreds of miles. The peaks themselves seem to taper off after a few miles, but they start quite abruptly.


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| We hope to get back here on a clear day, the view would be amazing if it didn't fade to grey so quickly! |



After all the hiking, we were understandably hungry. Since Banfora was some 55 km's away, it seemed quite reasonable to look for lunch in the town of Sindou. That is how we came face to face with one of the realities of Burkina.... it's not built for tourists! Even though the peaks are a "major" attraction, relatively speaking, and are featured in every guide book on Burkina, there is not much else for tourists in town. The first restaurant we stopped at was out of food (after all, why buy and cook food noone is going to eat?), and we practically toured the whole town before finally finding a restaurant that had 1 item left, rice with peanut sauce. None of us were willing to forego this place in the hopes of finding anything better, so rice it was! But, don't despair, once we made it back to Banfora that evening, we had one of the best meals that we have had in Burkina. It more than made up for the very mediocre rice and sauce. Also, our hotel in Banfora was quite nice. Now, don't start imagining a high rise hotel offering suites and mini-bars.... this hotel was actually mock huts surrounding a large courtyard with covered tables in the center. I say "mock huts" because, while they looked on the outside like the round huts we see in villages all over, inside they looked like true hotel rooms, complete with furnishings and nice bathrooms. Did I happen to mention, very good water pressure? That's much more important than you might think, unless you happen to be covered with dust and sweat from a long motorcycle ride in a country not known for it's showers! After the dust was all washed off, the tables in the courtyard became the scene for us to learn the game of "Cames", a simple, but very competitive team card game. Overall, a very pleasant stay, and somewhere we will be very happy to return to.
Finally, on to Tuesday, the finale of the trip, and the most anticipated destination: the "cascades" (waterfalls). They are maybe a 30 minute ride from the hotel, passing (you guessed it) sugar cane fields, in addition to palm wine vendors. In case you have never had the chance to try palm wine, it's a very unique beverage made from some unknown part of the palm (well, unknown to us). It ferments during the day, being drinkable at 10am, progressing to disturbing and finally undrinkable as the day goes on. However, that was just a side jaunt of the day, everyone's real focus was on the cascades.
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| Keenly anticipating the experience of palm wine! |
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Finally, we arrive and begin the hike to the top.
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| The view looking down from the top of the big waterfall |
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| When you find this much water in West Africa, what do you do? Get in it, of course!!! |
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| The small upper falls |
To conclude, a few images of riding across Burkina Faso (or at least a small corner of it):
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| Near Banfora |
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| "Essence" is gas in French, Total is a brand of gas stations here... pretty sure this place isn't affiliated with them in any way! These little stands are common all over |
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| The road to the cascades |
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| The road to Sindou |